Planning for a Cape Cross Day Tour from Swakopmund? You smell Cape Cross before you see it. The wind comes off the ocean carrying something strong and salty and animal. It is the smell of thousands of seals. As you get closer, you start to hear them too. A low, constant roar of barking that gets louder as the car pulls into the reserve.
Then you walk to the fence and see them.
The whole beach is covered. Thousands and thousands of Cape fur seals lying on the sand, in the surf, on the rocks. Barking constantly, piled on each other in places. Cape Cross holds one of the largest fur seal colonies in the world, with over 100,000 seals at peak times.
The Cape Cross Seal Reserve
Cape Cross is located about 115 kilometres north of Swakopmund on the Skeleton Coast. The drive takes roughly one and a half hours. The road goes north along the coast, passing flat gravel plains and the cold Atlantic on the left.
The reserve is open every day. A small entrance fee applies. You walk along a raised boardwalk above the beach. The smell is powerful throughout. Most visitors find it intense but worth it.
Pups are born between November and December, when the colony is at its most dense. Adult males weigh over 300 kilograms and defend their space loudly. Females and pups move around them in constant low-level chaos.
The Cross of Diogo Cão
At Cape Cross, a tall stone cross stands near the beach. A Portuguese explorer named Diogo Cão erected a cross here in 1486. It was one of the first physical markers left by any European explorer on the southern African coast. The cross you see today is a replica. The original was taken to Germany and is now in a museum in Berlin.
Standing next to this cross, with the seal colony behind you, the cold ocean in front, and the Skeleton Coast stretching in both directions, is one of the most historic moments on the Namibia coast.
Good to Know Before You Go
Bring a windproof jacket. The Skeleton Coast is cold and windy all year round. The smell is strongest when there is no wind. Most visits to the reserve last about two to three hours in total. The entrance fee is small and paid at the reserve gate on arrival.